Waiting to be beyond Eden


In all we spent ten days in Eden. Whilst the weather in Eden was generally calm and sunny the winds in the latitudes below us blew and blew. One sector would ease then the strong wind warnings were up for the next. We had plenty to keep us occupied, meeting several yachts. Some were returning from the Wooden Boat Festival, another completing a cruise from Adelaide to the Whitsundays. We met our neighbour across the wharf whom we decided not to visit after he disclosed the presence of a pet seven foot python on board!
We trekked up Warrens Walk each day, getting a little bit faster and a little less puffed each time. We searched fruitlessly for a decent cup of coffee… and enjoyed the showers of the Fishermans Club. They aren’t very flash, but they at least afford a hot water shower, rather than the tepid showers at the wharf. Previous visitors to the wharf here will be horrified to know that the daily wharfage fee has escalated from $5.00  to $20.00 per day, with no discernable benefits to warrant the price hike! Everywhere we went in town people were buzzing with the news that a new floating development had finally been approved. Not a minute too soon we thought, as this small town seems less prosperous that when we passed through here two years ago and the current wharves are requiring significant maitenence to keep them functional. The fuel truck is no longer allowed to access the visitors wharf, yachts refuelling must make arrangements to tie up temporarily to the working wharf. If ordering a taxi in Eden it pays to know your wharf’s local name. The visitors wharf is referred to as the Skinny Wharf, the working wharf the Fat Wharf and the the furtherest across is the Ice Wharf.
Each day the black Mussel boat would return from across the bay, clattering fresh bounty as they unloaded. The mussels here are some of the largest and tastiest we have ever encountered. We devoured ours with a chilli tomato sauce, then climbed the hill to the Eden Smokehouse to purchase gravlax and chili smoked mussels. Good fresh local food from a pristine environment.
Friday brought another low and with it wind and rain. We hunkered down and slept little as Fling lurched around. By Sunday all was improving, clouds scudding away and finally it seemed we would have a weather window to leave Monday afternoon. We were up early and scooted up the hill to provision, our last chance before home. At 1200 hrs we cast off, receiving a final wave from the harbour seal as we rounded the rock wall.

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